Penrith
Directions
Leaving Greystoke, then on to Newton Reigny and Penrith You soon pass Blencowe Hall (see p61), the aforementioned fortified farmhouse. It is an unusually handsome building just before you get to the vil age of Little Blencow. Just up the road follow signs to the right and you wil enter Penrith via Newton Reigny and Newton Rigg.
On leaving Newton Rigg campus go underneath the M6 and turn right at the T-junction, going into town along Robinson Street, across Scotland Rd and into Drover's Lane.
The route is wel sign-posted. You know you are on the right tracks when you find yourself exiting Penrith up Fel Lane - a steep climb to a T-junction at the top.
About the town
A handsome red sandstone market town, Penrith was the capital of the Kingdom of Cumbria in the 9th and 10th centuries, a time when the area was al ied to Scotland as a semi-independent part of the Kingdom of Strathclyde. Since it was on the main north-south road it also witnessed more than its fair share of bloody action during border conflicts; the Scots put the town to torch three times during the 14th century alone.
Its early growth was restricted because the town had no water supply, but in 1385 Bishop Strickland diverted Thacka Beck from the river Peterill, an eco- sensitive agreement that al owed the townspeople to draw only as much water daily from the Peteril as would flow through the eye of a millstone (still on view outside the Tourist Information Centre). By the 18th century it was an important cattle market. The oldest streets in the town, Burrowgate and Sandgate, are narrow, unspoilt and 800 years old. Two traditional shops have also survived, as if preserved in aspic: Graham's, Penrith's answer to Fortnum & Mason; and Arnisons, the drapers, established in 1740 in the building that was once the home of Wordsworth's grandparents. The poet and his sister Dorothy attended the Dame Anne Birkett School, now the Tudor Coffee Room, overlooking St Andrew's Churchyard and final resting place of Owen Caesarius, a legendary giant and King of All Cumbria.
They are far from the only famous figures from history associated with the town. As "Guardian of the West March towards Scotland", the Duke of Gloucester plotted his way towards being crowned Richard III from behind the sandstone ramparts of the magnificent Penrith Castle.
It was not all skulduggery though: he also stayed at one of the pubs in town and is even said to have had a private underground passage to it so that he could go back and forth unseen. The link is commemorated in the pub's name, the Gloucester Arms, and some of the original stonework is stil there - which is scarcely true of the castle which was a ruin by the mid 16th century, donating much of its stonework to the town's buildings.
Once a pub, The Two Lions is equally historic while the George Hotel provided lodgings for Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745, during his ill-fated foray south in search of the crown.
Others linked to Penrith include Mary Queen of Scots, Oliver Cromwell and the writer, Anthony Trollope. The first must have spent most of her life on horseback to get to al the places she is alleged to have visited, though in the case of Penrith the connection is justified. Cromwell occupied the town in 1654 and though the pen is mightier than the sword, Trollope is not thought to have caused as much bloodshed. More recently, the area was immortalised in Bruce Robinson's classic film comedy of 1987, 'Withnail and I', in which the area is again traumatised - this time by a pair of drunken wannabe actors (even though the filming was done elsewhere, the non-existent Penrith Tearooms still resonates with cineastes).
Above Penrith is Beacon Hill, past which you wil shortly be cycling. Beacons have been lit there through the ages to warn of threat of invasion. Its views are stunning.
Things to see
Penrith Museum and Tourist Information Centre Housed in the former Robinson's School, an Elizabethan building altered in 1670 and a school until the early 1970s. The museum covers the history, geology and archaeology of the Penrith area. Free entry. 01768 867466
St Andrew's Church The Giant's Grave in the Churchyard is that of Owen Caesarius, the legendary slayer of monsters from Inglewood Forest. The tower is 12th century, the rest dates from 1720, being rebuilt after a fire. The stained-glass windows added in 1870.
Bluebell Bookshop, Angel Square 01768 866660.
The town's architecture . Take a walk around. Well worth a stopover.
Penrith Castle Started in 1399, once home to Richard III but abandoned after his death. Free entry.
Where to eat and drink
Agricultural Hotel, Castlegate, a real no frills but nonetheless upmarket version of the Station (directly opposite). Food and drink and rooms. 01768 862 622
Bewicks Coffee Shop & Bistro (closes at 5pm), Princes Court, accomplished and simple; lovely setting, reasonable prices: 01768 864764 Taste of Bengal, Stricklandgate, solid and unpretentious dishes from a place without pretentions: 01768 891700
Blue Elephant Café (closes at 5pm), Angel Sq, vegetarian organic retreat upstairs from the Bluebell Bookshop. New cafe owner: 01768 866660. Scotts Fish Restaurant, Sandgate, 53-seat no-nonsense chippie next to the bus station: 01768 890838.
Board & Elbow, 30 Cornmarket, no nonsense old fashioned pub in the town centre serving steak and ale pie style grub. 01768 867221.
Costas, 9 Queen St. Spanish. Big portions. Nice atmosphere. 0871 5297373.
Dolce Vita, Bishop Yards. Mixed reports. Cosy interior but this reporter has yet to sample their wares. 01768 891998.
Fifteen, (closes at 5pm) 15 Victoria Road, welcome addition to the Penrith food scene. Laid back atmosphere. Food is fresh and simple yet inventive. Healthy options and some fine cake. Cycle enthusiasts. 01768 867453.
George Hotel, Devonshire St, does everything from lounge snacks to formal restaurant. Reliable and reasonable: 01768 862696.
Gianni's Pizzeria, 11 Market Sq. Does what it says: serves basic, solid Italian fare - good way to end a day in the saddle. 01768 891791.
Gloucester Arms, Great Dockray, another fine old town cetnre drinking den serving plain pub fare. 01768 863 745.
Lowther Arms, Queen St, a great little pub - probably Penrith's best. Good real ales, friendly service and decent pub food. 0871 5297891.
Platinum Chinese Restaurant, buffet more than adequate - some rave reports from other diners: 01768 210210
Station Hotel, Castlegate, bustling town centre bar and food station. Okay for big parties. 01768 866 714.
Villa Bianchi, Corney Sq. Another old fashioned family run Italian. 01768 210826
Cycle Shops
Arragons, Brunswick Road. 01768 890 344 www.arragonscycles.com
Harpers Cycles, 1-2 Middlegate 01768 864 475
Accommodation
| Strickland Arms, Anton & Penny Flaherty, Strickland Arms, Great Strickland, Penrith, CA10 3DF | |
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A delightful diversion close to Ullswater, this warm and friendly pub has lots of character and is in the heart of the Eden Valley, five miles from Penrith. There is a secluded garden and a dry-stone terraced front and riotous display of flowers. Real fires, cask ales, a decent selection of wines to go with homemade food. The menu varies from individual short-crust pies, made fresh to order such as Steak & Ale, Chicken Leek, Mushroom & Smoked Bacon and our very own 'Stricky' Lamb & Ale. Also do more exotic dishes such as Moroccan meat cakes. Hoping to add further accommodation and caravan pitches this year. |
Run by: Strickland Arms 
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Telephone : 01931 712238 |
Rooms : 2T/D |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Fellfoot, 10 Fell Lane, CA11 8AA | |
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Fellfoot Independent Hostel is in the centre of Penrith. We offer welcoming and budget facilities for those determined souls in transit. Alasdair and Jackie, keen touring cyclists themselves, developed Fellfoot as a calm and relaxed living–space in which to recharge. There is a secure bike store, facility for washing / drying gear, private courtyard garden for sitting out / barbecues etc and the option of a healthy high-mileage breakfast-basket brought round to the kitchen to help kick-start the next day’s ride. The hostel is entirely independent of the main house and has its own well equipped kitchen/diner area so that self-catering is available. Car parking available for “rescue” vehicles / support. |
Run by: Alasdair & Jackie Rutherford 
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Tel : 01768 840327 |
Rooms : 4T |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Eden Gate, 5 Victoria Road, Penrith, CA11 8HR | |
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'S.Rhodes & party from Teesside left the following note: "Excellent stop for C2Cers - unable to fault." You too can enjoy our comfortable rooms, all with flat screen, free-view TV. Delicious breakfast and wthin two to three minutes walk of numerous shops, restaurants and pubs. Can cater for groups of 10.' |
Run by: Lorraine Roberts 
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Tel/Fax : 01768 866538 |
Rooms : 1D, 1T, 2F
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Caledonia Guest House, 8 Victoria Road, Penrith, CA11 8HR | |
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Family run Victorian town house with good spacious roms. Good hearty breakfast in a warm and friendly atmosphere. New flat screen tellies, tea and coffee making facilities in all rooms. New bike shed. |
Run by: Ian & Sue Rhind 
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Tel/Fax : 01768 864 482 |
Rooms : 2D, 3T, 1F |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Blue Swallow Guest House, 11 Victoria Road, Penrith, Cumbria, CA11 8HR | |
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Clean, comfortable rooms, six of which are en-suite and one has a private bathroom. Colour TV, Tea/Coffee trays. Excellent English breakfast using local produce. Secure lock up for cycles. Easy access to eating and drinking establishments. Well recommended with lots of repeat business. |
Run by: Peter and Cynthia Barry 
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Tel : 01768 866335 |
Rooms : 4D, 4T, 2S, 3F (6 en-suite, one with private facilities) |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Acorn Guest House, Scotland Rd, Penrith, CA11 9HL | |
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Now offering afternoon teas, this cycle friendly, immaculate family run guest house is only a short walk into the town centre. Sizeable rooms are airy and clean with colour TV. Full English breakfast using good local produce. |
Run by: Joyce & Anita 
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Tel : 01768 868696 |
Rooms : 4D,4T,1F |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Tynedale Guest House, 4 Victoria Road, Penrith, Cumbria, CA11 8HR | |
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High level of comfort and attention to detail. Quality en-suite accommodation in a warm and friendly environment offering a delicious, locally sourced English breakfast. Secure cycle storage; an excellent pedal-stop for weary C2Cers. Pubs and restaurants all close by. |
Run by: Marguerite & Thomas Powley 
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tel : 01768 867491 |
rooms : 1S, 4T/D, 2F (4 are en-suite) |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Abbey House, 7 Victoria Road, Penrith, Cumbria, CA11 8HR | |
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Just 5 minutes walk from the town. Located very close to the route. Four en-suite bedrooms with TVs and tea/coffee trays which can accommodate groups of up to 12. English breakfast. Secure lock up for cycles. A warm welcome and big breakfast awaits. Secure bike storage. |
Run by: Mark & Anne Holliday 
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Tel & fax : 01768 863414 |
Rooms : 4 D/T two of which can be triples. Available as singles. |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Roundthorn Country House, Beacon Edge, Penrith, CA11 8JS | |
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A beautiful Georgian mansion with spectacular views of the Eden Valley & Lakeland Fells. All rooms are en-suite with TV and tea/coffee making facilties. The hotel has a licensed bar and is great value for money for a hotel of this class. |
Run by: Graham Carruthers 
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Tel : 01768 863 952 |
Rooms : 7D, 2T, 2F (E-S). |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Keeper's Cottage, Brougham, Cumbria CA10 2DE | |
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Keepers Cottage used to belong to the gamekeeper and is 250 years old. The rooms are en-suite and there is secure cycle storage, drying facilities and parking for several cars. We are about a mile from the route, under the A66 near Brougham Castle. Good pub nearby.
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Run by: Jimmy & Pat Wright 
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Tel: 01768 865280
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Rooms : 2D, 1T. Directions : Drovers Lane, Benson Rd, Folly Lane and left onto Carlton Rd. By the side of the Cross Keys pub is a short cut under A66. Go to X roads and head right and left at T-junction. 2nd cottage on the right.
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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