Greystoke
About the village
Paying homage to the original Tarzan
This traditional English village, 8km west of Penrith, was built around a green with a pub and a church the size of a cathedral. Discreetly hidden at the top of a long drive and behind a curtain of trees in a 3,000-acre wooded park is Greystoke Castle, seat of the Howard family since the 1500s when they were emerging as movers and shakers behind the monarchies of the late Tudors and early Stuarts.
Tarzan is modelled on one former Baron Greystoke, and there are certainly enough trees for any Lord of the Apes to practice on. It is a family home and business rather than a theme park, so not much is made of the Tarzan link, but I thought Tarzan fans might be interested.
The vilage is probably Roman in origin, lying alongside the road they built from Penrith to Troutbeck. The name means 'place by the River Creik', a small stream nearby. The village was known as Creistock in early Medieval times. Though most of the village dates from the 17th century, the foundation of the Perpendicular-style church was laid in the mid-1200s, though building did not start until 1382 and went on into the next century. The bells that still ring out in Greystoke date from the Middle Ages. Inside is some fine Medieval and Victorian stained glass (see picture).
The Spillers Stone in the village was thought to be a plague stone, where plague victims left coins in a pool of vinegar on its concave surface. The vinegar was supposed to protect the healthy, who left food there for sufferers. According to the Cumbria Directory, Greystoke Castle was an integral part of village life, the first version being constructed in 1129 as protection against Scottish Border raiders, early versions of the Reivers, that came to dominate the area before the cycle route picked up the nomenclature.
Cromwell destroyed much of Greystoke and a devastating fire in 1868 ensured that only the medieval pele (fortified) tower and a few Georgian interiors survived and the present building, though it mimics the Elizabethan style, actually dates from the 19th century. The nearby countryside boasts a number of fine old fortified houses complete with pele towers, notably Blencowe Hall, built in 1590, Greenthwaite Hall, and Johnby Hall. All are reminders of the bloody times in the Borders.
The Boot and Shoe pub in the village acquired its name because of the strange sartorial habit of a former Duke of Norfolk of wearing a shoe on one foot and a boot on the other, to ease the pain of crippling gout. Whether or not, thus clad, he shuffled down the long drive and across the green to the pub is not recorded. He would have done better settling for tea and scones at Annie Swarbrick's Greystoke Cycle Cafe (see entry), a welcome addition to the village.
At time of going to press proposals were still afoot to build nine 100m high wind turbines above the village - plans which are being fiercely opposed as they wil have serious visual impact on this majestic spot. Those wishing to object should go to www.blencathra.net.
Accommodation
| Boot & Shoe, Greystoke, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 0TP | |
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Since Jan and Ben took over three years ago the Boot & Shoe has enjoyed a new lease of life. There's a real buzz about the place; cyclists, jockeys and locals jostle for place while Jan hands out steaming plates of excellent food ranging from chicken balti to local dishes like Lamb Henry. A real community hub. Log fire in the bar, stove in the lounge plus selection of well kept real ales. |
Run by: Jan & Ben Mandale 
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Telephone : 017684 83343 |
Rooms : 4T+1D/T (en-suite) |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Stafford House, Greystoke Castle, Greystoke | |
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Large Victorian folly that looks like a walled Gothic castle within the grounds of Tarzan's castle (Greystoke) and shares the same magnificent drive. The house is Grade II listed and sits in 3/4 of an acre of its own grounds with castle battlements on three sides and arched windows. Aside from looking Medieval, it is very comfortable. Vegetarian and gluten free breakfast options. |
Run by: Hazel Knight 
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Tel : 017684 83558 |
B&B : £35-£45 (£50 for single occ). |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| The Bunkhouse, Stafford House, Greystoke Castle, Greystoke, Cumbria | |
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This new bunkhouse sleeps up to 15 in two dormitories, Blencathra Lodge and Pennine Lodge. The head gardener for Greystoke Castle used to reside in the main house at this property and used the lodge to store all the home-grown fruit and supplies for the Howard family through the long winters. It is now fully kitted out with a fitted kitchen-diner, with every convenience including linen and towels, wet rooms, drying rooms, lockers are available and one of the toilets is easily accessible for the disabled. Tea, coffee, fruit juice, various cereals, bread butter and jams and milk are provided. The rest can be found at the local shop which is only 5 minutes walk and offers a good choice of fare, the Boot & Shoe pub or the Cycle Cafe. |
Run by: Hazel Knight 
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Tel : 017684 83558 |
Blencathra dorm : sleeps 4-5 : Pennine Lodge: sleeps 8-10 (two rooms) |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Beech House, Berrier Rd, Greystoke CA11 0UE | |
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Grade II listed 17th century smallholding with pigs and hens neighbouring Greystoke castle and only 100 metres from the Boot & Shoe. Beech House is part of Lattendales country house, and is a splendid spot. |
Run by: Jill McAlea 
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Tel: 017684 80829 |
Rooms : 1D/F, 1T |
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| Greystoke Cycle Cafe, Greystoke, CA11 0UT | |
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A stamping station which is becoming a 'must stop', just a stone's throw from the village. The walled tea garden is a lovely spot on a summer's day with great views across parkland to Greystoke Castle. Home baked cakes, cream teas, pasta, bacon butties and soup, mugs of tea, latte or hot chocolate, home made cordials and milkshakes. The barn open for cyclists only 10-6 for self-service; hot tea, flapjacks, chain oil, free bottle refills, spare inner tubes and more. Also a craft centre; 'Quirky Workshops' offer something for cycle support ladies (and men). Parking for cycle support only. Featured in Lonely Planet 'Cylcing in Britain' and Alastair Sawday's 'Special Venues.' Camping available. Phone to pre-order large group lunches.
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Run by: Annie Swarbric 
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Tel : 017684 83984 |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Brathen, The Thorpe, Greystoke, nr Penrith, Cumbria CA11 0TJ | |
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Comfortable barn conversion on the outskirts of the village with a warm welcome and hearty breakfasts using local produce. |
Run by: Christine Mole 
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Tel : 017684 83595 |
Rooms : 2D, 2T, 2F |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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| Blencowe Hall, Blencow, near Penrith, Cumbria, CA11 0DF | |
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This Grade I twelve bedroom, 11 bath fortified manor with two pele towers works best for large groups who plan to spend some time in the local area (min stay = 3 nights). If there are 24 of you then it works out about the same price as a B&B. Anyone who has cycled the C2C will have seen this recently renovated building overlooking the Greystoke to Blencow lane. The courtyard entrance is dated 1590, but this is one of the newer bits. It has its own chapel and many genuine medieval features, such as spiral stone staircases and inglenook fireplaces, all restored under the supervision of English Heritage. Massive welcome hamper including wine & breakfast items, T/D & W/M, 2 TVs. ***** rating from VisitBritain. Blencowe is rented out through Rural Retreats. See the website to get a fuller flavour. |
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Web : https://www.ruralretreats.co.uk/rr/ |
Rooms : 12. There are 11 bathrooms. |
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Have you stayed here? Let us know! |
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