COCKERMOUTH

This is one of the most attractive towns in the North West and is one of only two places in the Lake District to be designated a 'Gem Town' by the Department of the Environment, some 40 years ago. That means it is protected and will, in essence, remain the same in perpetuity.

It lies just outside the boundary of the Lake District National Park and perhaps for this reason is not inundated with tourists and all the tackiness that often goes with the industry.

4. Cockermouth		Back to
		The Wordsworth Hotel, 43 Main St, Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9JS
Tel		01900 822757 or 07919 882509
Rooms		10D, 2T, 3F
B&B:		£45
E. meal:		2 courses: £11-£20 (good wine list)
Packed lunch:		Around £4.50
DFR:		On route.

Friendly, warm yet contemporary 'gastro' pub, using the freshest local produce. There's an excellent wine list and a relaxed atmosphere. The whole pub has been refurbished and the rooms are spacious and comfortable.

John Carlin		Allerdale Court Hotel, Market Place, CA13 9NQ
Tel		01900 823654
Website		www.allerdalecourthotel.co.uk
Email		info@allerdalecourthotel.co.uk
Rooms		5T, 4S, 12D/S
B&B		£44-£72
EM		Pickwick: £17.95 2-courses; £21.95 3-courses. Oscars Bistro: £5.95-£13.95
PL		By arrangement

Warm hostpitality, good food, comfort and dedicated attention to detail is what this family run establishment prides itself on. Cosy yet fashionable, the Allerdale welcomes cyclists, golfers and general holidaymakers with equal courtesy.

John and Susan Graham		Rose Cottage, Lorton Road, Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9DX
Tel		01900 822189
Web		www.rosecottageguest.co.uk
Email		bookings@rosecottageguest.co.uk
Rooms		4D, 3T, 2F, 1S
B&B		£32.50 - £45
Packed Lunch		from £6.50
Evening meal		£22 for 3 courses
Distance from C2C		400mPubs nearby

A family run guest house in its own grounds. All rooms en-suite with colour TV, tea/coffee, central heating and all are now double glazed. Warm friendly atmosphere.

Rachel & Jean Habgood		Riverside, 12 Market St, Cumbria, CA13 9NJ
Telephone		01900 827504
Rooms		2T, 1S
B&B		£23-£25
Packed Lunch		£3.50 (prior notice, please)
Distance from C2C		Right on C2C & Reivers

Friendly, family run Georgian home with comfortable beds, excellent breakfasts, local amenities, tea-trays and drying facilities plus bike lock-up. Welcome!

This market town developed at the confluence of two great salmon rivers - the Cocker, which flows out of lakes Buttermere, Crummock and Loweswater - and the Derwent, which runs into and out of lakes Derwent and Bassenthwaite to join the sea at Workington.

Cockermouth received its Market Charter in 1221, and has retained its importance as a market town ever since. Quarrying and mining for lead and iron were later developments outside the town, and a brewery has been built at the foot of the castle mound, where the two rivers meet.

It has long held a fascination for writers, poets and artists and is the birthplace of William and Dorothy Wordsworth. One of the finest buildings in Cockermouth is Wordsworth House, the Lakeland poet's family home, now in the care of the National Trust.

The great architectural guru Sir Nikolaus Pevsner in his `Buildings of England', described the place as `quite a swagger house for such a town'. Built in 1745 for the then High Sheriff of Cumberland, Joshua Lucock, it was bought in 1761 by Sir James Lowther, son of Sir John, who built Whitehaven and its port. John Wordsworth, the poet's father, moved to Cockermouth as agent to Sir James in 1764, and in 1766 married and moved into what is now known as Wordsworth House. Here four sons and a daughter were born. Their mother died when William was eight, and he went to live with relations in Penrith.

The house thrived as a private residence until 1937, when it was put on the market. A prime location in the centre of town, bosses of the local bus company saw their chance and snapped it up. It was the natural spot for a new bus station, so they applied for - and got - planning permission to bulldoze it.

However there was such a national outcry that sufficient funds were raised from far and wide for the town to buy it back. It was promptly handed over to the National Trust repetition. The old kitchen and housekeeper's room now serve as a café/restaurant where you can get morning coffee, light lunches and atternoon tea.

Two other famous locals came from Eaglesfield, a mile from the town's centre, were born within two years of each other: Fletcher Christian, the man who led the mutiny on `The Bounty' was born in 1764, and attended the same school as Wordsworth; and two years later John Dalton, who was one of the most brilliant scientists of his age, and was the originator of the atomic theory.

Cockermouth Castle was built in the 13th century, but little of that remains because of the efforts of Robert the Bruce. The majority of today's ruins date from 1360 to 1370.

Tourist Information Centre is at the Town Hall, Market Place, Cockermouth, CA13 9NP (Tel: 01900 822634).

PLACES OF INTEREST

The Museum of Printing (01900 824984) has a varied and fascinating range of printing presses brought together from all over Britain.

Castlegate House (01900 822149) contemporary art exhibitions.

The Toy and Model Museum: mainly British toys from 1900 onwards.

Jennings Brewery offers 1.5 hour tours around the Brewery, explaining the various processes involved in brewing traditional beer.

The Bitter End is the first pub in Cumbria to have its own working brewery - `Cumbria's Smallest Brewery'.

Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre at the nearby roundabout on the A66, is where you can meet Cumbria's most famous residents. Western Lake District Visitor Centre - all about the area. It is also a hotel (see entry)

WHERE TO EAT

Beatfords Country Restaurant, 7 Lowther Went. 01900 827099

Cheers Bistro, 22, Main St. 01900 822109

Junipers Restaurant & Cafe Bar, 11 South St. 01900 822892

Norham Coffee House & Restaurant, 73 Main St. 01900 824330

Oscar's Bistro, 18-20 Market Place. 01900 823654

Nikki's Italian Restaurant & Bistro, 7 Old Kings Arms Lane. 01900 821223

Quince & Medlar, 13 Castlegate. 01900 823579. Fine food vegetarian.

Taste of India, 4-5 Headford Court, Main St. 01900 827844

The Bitter End Brew Pub, 15 Kirkgate. 01900 828993. Excellent value, great beer and great food.

Lee's Chinese Takeaway and Fish and Chips, 47 Main St. 01900 827770

Cross over Gote St from the Papcastle road and continue past the James Walker factory, then right onto Bridge St, crossing the river just atter the doctor's surgery.

You then head lett onto Main St. Go past Station St before turning right into Challoner St, lett into Cocker Lane and then almost immediately right to follow the river, under Lorton St towards the Youth Hostel, before turning right to swivel over the river Cocker and follow the path past the cemetery before the hairpin right turn onto Strawberry Home Rd, where you take a lett. It is now a straightforward run.

You may wish to stop off near the shores of Bassenthwaite's northern tip, in which case go through the village of Wythop Mill and turn right by the phone box. Turn left at the Pheasant Inn and go over the A66 onto the B5291, taking the scenic Ouse Bridge to the Castle Hotel (listed in the Reivers section under Bassenthwaite). It's a short hop up to the village and the Sun Inn, where they serve good food and ale.

Assuming you do not opt for this diversion, you will encounter a short, hilly section before the descent to Bassenthwaite Lake, from whence it is an easy ride into Keswick. At Thornthwaite you meet up with the Whitehaven route.