Just follow the transformed transformers (great steel monoliths sculpted from reclaimed scraps which have assumed iconic status - the Stanley Sphinxes). Don't forget to look at the metal cows near Beamish. Created by Sally Matthews, they are surprisingly graceful as they stand beside the path, turning grass into rust.

There's also King Coal by artist David Kemp, next to the abandoned railway line at Pelton Fell. This was built of stone from the dismantled Consett railway station bridge, bricks from old kilns and British Coal provided the crown. It was put together by a stonemason and local volunteers and was, by sheer coincidence, finished on October 15 1992 - the very day of the announcement of the closure of the last pits in Durham coalfields.

Chester-le-Street is the oldest town in County Durham, and was once a Roman settlement. The Washington Wildfowl and Wetlands Centre is very near the route. This 100-acre waterfowl park designed by Peter Scott has over 1,200 birds and is visited by several mammals including the scarce water vole.

Places of Interest

The Washington Wetlands Trust 100 acres of magnificent parkland, ponds and hides 0191 416 5454

EATING OUT

The Wheatsheaf Pelaw Grange - 0191 388 3104

The Barley Mow Browns Buildings - 0191 410 4504

CYCLE SHOPS Cestria Cycles 11 Ashfield Terrace - 0191 388 7535

C2C Features: the Penshaw Monument, a look-alike Doric Temple dedicated to Theseus, was built in memory of John George Lambton, the 1st Earl of Durham.

If you manage to leave the river here in one piece, the thankful! For this is where the Lambton Worm resides (and we are not referring here to the erstwhile politician). The legend runs that a young Lambton lad, fishing in the river against all advice, caught a small worm. In disgust he threw it into a nearby well and went off to fight in the Crusades. On his return the "worm" had grown into a dragon which ravaged the countryside. A witch agreed to slay the beast on condition that Lambton kill the first living thing he met. Unfortunately it was his father, whom of course he spared, and so failed to fulfil his side of the bargain, thus nine generations of Lambtons were condemned to meet untimely ends.

24. Chester-le-Street		Back to
Wendy Rippon		Malling Guest House, 1 Oakdale Terrace, Chester-le-Street, DH2 2SU
Tel		0191 370 2571
Web		www.mallingguesthouse.freeserve.co.uk
Email		wendy@kafs.wanadoo.co.uk
Rooms		2S, 1T, 1F
B&B		£25 - £35
Packed Lunch		£5
Distance from C2C		300m. Pub opposite

Heather's daughter Wendy has taken over this 17 year-old cycle-friendly business, and is putting lots of energy into making things work smoothly. Malling was previously a doctor's house with surgery attached and is warm and friendly, with a couple of really good pubs on the doorstep.