The hill out of Little Salkeld is very steep. Stop off and do some sightseeing, says my colleague and C2C expert, Dik Stoddart: "Visit Long Meg - it's an excuse to have a rest."

You will shortly be presented with a choice: whether or not to take the cross-country route over Hartside. If you do you will be pushing or carrying your bike for quite a bit of the stretch. If you take the alternative road route via Renwick you will have a winding and steep ascent, but one that is manageable from the saddle (I suspect that I'm not the only cyclist to have dismounted a couple of times on this section).

At the top is Hartside Café, a (motor)bikers haven. At 580 metres (1900 feet), it is the highest tea shop in England and on a fine day (they do happen) you can see Scotland across the Solway Firth. Views of the Eden Valley are terrific: not for nothing was the drive along the A686 voted one of the ten best in the world by the AA.

Your climb up to Hartside is rewarded by one of the best sections of downhill in the North West. Near the bottom of Benty Hill a road goes off to the right for Leadgate and Garrigill. You have a choice - take it, or continue the delirious descent along the A686 until you get to the handsome town of Alston, perched on the edge of the Pennines.

Alston sits at 280m (919feet) above sea level and is supposedly the highest market town in England. Picture-postcard-pretty and a firm favourite with outdoor types, it lies in a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), a solid bastion of civilisation on the edge of one of Britain's greatest areas of wilderness. A former centre for Cumberland wrestling, cattle fairs and races, Alston is completely unspoilt by developers and has cobbled streets, 17th century shops and pubs that hark back to a former age. It is naturally a magnet for film makers; Oliver Twist was shot here for television - there is even an Oliver Twist trail - and Dickens himself visited in the 1830s to research Nicholas Nickleby.

The town, built around an old market square, was formed around the confluence of the South Tyne and Nent rivers and owes much to the lead mining industry. First mined by the Romans, the Quakers arrived in the 18th century to set up the London Lead Mining Company. To find out more, visit the Mines Heritage Centre. The mines and their machinery are now silent but there are scattered hill farms where mining families grew crops to subsidise their meagre wages.

Heather clad moors, fells and valleys are alive with curlews, lapwings, peewits, peregrines and grouse, while deer and red squirrel roam this natural fastness.

There is some fine cycling across Alston Moor before you get to Nenthead. You can either take the B6277 past Garrigill or take the more direct A689.

There's also some classy accommodation at Nent Hall plus an excellent B&B (see Nenthead section).

13. Alston		Back to
Steve & Tian Smith		Victoria Inn, Front St, CA9 3SE
Tel		01434 381194
Email		victoriainncumbria@talk21.com
Rooms		4S, 2D, 2F
B&B		£23-£30
Evening meal		Around £6. Good Oriental twist to Tian's cooking.
Packed lunch		from £3.50

Friendly, family run B&B right in the centre of Alston. Warm, clean and comfortable accommodation offering everything you need. Accepts all major credit cards. Having briefly closed its doors as a pub, the Victoria is now serving again.

Michael & Carole Allchorne		Alston House, Townfoot, Alston, Cumbria, CA9 3RN
Tel		01434 382200
Web		www.alstonhouse.co.uk
Email		info@alstonhouse.co.uk
Rooms		1D, 3T, 1F
B&B		£30-£60
Evening meal		6-9pm £8-£18
On route		Fully licensed

Attractive hotel run by a chef who took over in late 2006. Michael & Carole have long experience in the catering business and have great plans for this comfortable, contemporary and stylish setting. Roaring fires in the winter.

Guy & Helen Harmer		The Cumberland Hotel, Townfoot, Alston, Cumbria CA9 3HX
Tel		01434 381875
Web		www.alstoncumberlandhotel.co.uk
Email		info@alstoncumberlandhotel.co.uk
Rooms		2D, 1F, 2tpl
B&B		£30-£35
Evening meal		£6-£15
Packed lunch		£4.50

All rooms en-suite, bike storage, drying/cleaning facilities. Only stamping point in Alston. Choice of traditional cask ales and home cooked food. Family run.

Phil Webster		YHA Alston, The Firs, Alston, Cumbria CA9 3RW
Tel		01434 381509
Fax		01434 382401
Web		www.yha.org.uk
Email		alston@yha.org.uk
Rooms		2X2, 2X4, 3X6 (bunkrooms)
Bed		from £13.95
Breakfast		£4.50 trad English
Evening meal		£9 for 3 courses
Packed lunch		£4 or £5.10
Secure cycle storage		On route
Pub		5 minute walk

YHA Alston, a 30 bedded Youth Hostel provides 3 star affordable dormitory accommodation in the heart of Alston. All bed linen and towels provided. Hot showers and excellent washing and drying facilities. Superb selection of meals or self-catering option. Open all year round.

Richard & Laura Elston		Lowbyer Manor Country House, Hexham Rd, Alston, Cumbria, CA9 3JX
Tel		01434 381230
Web		www.lowbyer.com
Email		stay@lowbyer.com
Rooms		1S, 5D, 2T, 1F
B&B		£33-£55
Packed lunch		£5
Distance from C2C		Under 1km. Same for pub.
AA 4 star guest house		Secure cycle storage. Drying facilities

Grade II listed manor house in the heart of a UNESCO Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The C2C passes close by as well as several circular routes around the Alston area.

Sarah Sawyer		Alston Wholefoods, Front Street (next to Angel pub), Alston.
Telephone		01434 381588
Website		www.cybermoor.org

This is a workers' co-operative which stocks delicious local products (and candles), specialising in organic and Fair Trade. Good beers and wines, gourmet ice creams.

Dave Simpson		Alston Training & Adventure Centre, High Plains Lodge, Alston, Cumbria CA9 3DD.
Tel		01434 381886
Web		www.alstontraining.co.uk
Email		alstontraining@btconnect.com
Rooms		10 sleeping 3 or more with total of 45 beds. 2 en-suite shower rooms
Bed		£12 (bedding extra £4)
Breakfast		£5.50
Evening meal		£8.50
Packed lunch		£3.50
Camping		£4
Distance from route		1.5 miles on Nenthead-Garrigill road. 1 mile off-road

Ideal for campers or group bookings, though Alston Adventure Centre will accommodate individuals or small groups under the right circumstances. This is the ideal half-way stopping place, overlooking the Alston Valley with stunning views. Warm comfortable dormitories, lashings of food, a superb cooked breakfast, self-catering or camping option available.

Pauline Elliott		YHA Ninebanks, Orchard House, Mohope, Ninebanks, Hexham, Northumberland NE47 8DQ.
Tel		01434 345288
Web		www.yha.ninebanks.co.uk
Email		ninebanks@yha.org.uk
Rooms		26 beds in 5 rooms - 2 en-suite
Price		YHA prices - £10 and £7 for u-18s.
Secure cycle storage		Nearest pub: 5 miles

6 miles from Coalcleugh and seven from Alston. Ninebanks is in former lead miners cottages now available to non YHA members. Self-catering. Licensed premises. Full catering service for pre-booked groups. Book a bed, a room or the whole hostel. Comfortable year round accommodation.

Sue Mills		Deneholme, The Dene, Allendale, NE47 9PX
Tel		01434 618579
Web		www.deneholme.co.uk
Email		info@deneholme.co.uk
Rooms		5T, 3S, 1D, 2F
B&B		20 persons or more £35; 15-20 - £40; 12-15 - £45
DB&B		20 perons or more - £45.50; 15-20 - £50.50 - 12-15 - £55.50.
Distance from route		7 miles - demands a detour out of Alston into prime AONB
Secure lock up		Pubs nearby. Great for groups
Prices include VAT		3 star accommodation
Five acres of grounds		Exclusive use guaranteed to all groups

Exclusive use guaranteed for all groups at this comfortable and stylish Edwardian country manor house on the edge of the village of Allendale, about 10 miles north east of Alston and about seven north of Allenheads. Allendale invites you to cross Hexhamshire Common to Blanchland and the Derwent Reservoir if you are extremely hardy and have the right equipment. Or you might prefer to trundle down the B6295 and rejoin the route at Allenheads. 3 Star accommodation set in five acres of woodlands, Deneholme is comfortable kitted out and is the sort of place you might wish to stop at for more than one night. There is an in-house chef, Christine Hutchinson, and the house is all yours. Minimum number: 12. Owned by the Fawside charity whose work involves community regeneration.

Places of Interest

Tourist Information Centre: Town Hall, Front St 01434 382244.

South Tynedale Railway Station - England's highest narrow-gauge track runs along 3.6km of former British Rail track. There is a tea room at the old station. Runs every weekend April - October plus some weekends in December, and daily during August. 01434 381696 or, for the talking timetable 01434 382828.

Hartside Nursery Garden - on route one mile from Alston: rare and unusual alpine plants.

The Hub, Station Unit, opposite rail station, Alston. Local history museum with eclectic mix. Entry by donation, run by volunteers. 01434 382244.

Eating Out

Alston House is now in the hands of seasoned chef, Michael Allchorne (see above) 01434 382200

Blueberry's in the Market Place - good meals, snacks and afternoon tea. See below for details 01434 381928.

The Cumberland Hotel - see entry 01434 381875.

The Moody Baker - artisan bakery owned by a workers' co-operative specialising in delicious pies, quiches etc and originators of the high-energy Moody Baker Biker Bar 01434 382003.

The Cumbrian Pantry, Front St. Good home baking. 01434 381406